A former Gimlet chef who pivoted to sandwiches in the course of the pandemic is branching out with JollyGood Diner and its easy, comforting American fare.
JollyGood, one of many many sandwich pivots by a fine-dining chef in 2020 that set off our sandwich mania, is now elevating the bar for diner meals in Melbourne, serving restaurant-quality breakfast sandwiches, burgers and bloody Marys in a timber-heavy house in Collingwood.
Positioned just some doorways away from Terror Twilight, Stefanino Panino and Hope Avenue Radio, JollyGood Diner brings an all-day, wallet-friendly choice to the thriving pocket.
“The top objective for me was at all times a bar,” says proprietor Raphael Exton Pery. “Initially, I believed it will be a wine bar, however now I’ve discovered my area of interest.”
American diners attraction to him due to their democracy, constructed for everybody from solo diners to folks after a speedy, low-budget meal to teams who need to flip dinner into an evening of cocktails and champagne.
JollyGood’s different store in Fitzroy stays open and can focus on the signature sandwiches that earned it many followers, such because the French dip with roast beef.
What’s the vibe?
Americana lite. Taking his favorite features of diners, like the heat, sales space seats and an extended bar, Exton Pery has added some extra modern touches like polished concrete flooring and bentwood chairs. Then there’s the eye to service and the execution of the dishes. The chef has labored at Gimlet, Gingerboy, Rockpool, Lagotto and different high spots round city, which brings an simple degree of polish. However there are not any bookings, a communal desk at bar peak, a late licence (quickly to kick in) and a better-than-expected drinks record that hold the great occasions rolling.
Isn’t there already a JollyGood?
Ten factors to you. Sure, JollyGood, the sandwich spot connected to Fitzroy beer bar Close to and Far, has been up and working for greater than two years. Now known as JollyGood Junior, it should nonetheless be your go-to if it’s only a sandwich you’re after.
When ought to I go to?
On mornings while you’re somewhat beneath the climate and solely an oozy cheese, egg and hash brown sandwich will repair you.
Late at evening with mates, when it’s time for a nightcap and squishy burgers, or a slice of candy pie ($13) from the dish that sits on the bar. Key lime is at all times on; the new pie filling is likely to be cherry, apple or one thing else.
When your sandwich cravings strike at 3pm, you possibly can sink right into a leather-based sales space and add a faucet beer or glass of wine. This actually is an all-day venue.
What ought to I order?
Should you already know the roster of JG sandwiches, department out to one of many new menu gadgets: a membership sandwich starring house-made maple bacon ($16) or a burger, both basic ($18) or with a smash patty ($16). To finish your diner immersion remedy, add a dill and chive-flecked wedge salad ($12), a chunk of pie and a filter espresso by Supreme that may make Agent Dale Cooper gush.
What’s there to drink?
The boozy Arnold Palmer ($18). It’s a refreshing mixture of lemonade and peach iced tea, named after the American golfer who used to order it on the clubhouse. Besides at Jolly Good, it’s tricked up with Wild Turkey bourbon. Bloody Marys are a fab concept within the morning. Later, take Exton Pery’s advice and pair your burger with a juicy beaujolais.
What’s the very best seat?
The seats that really feel essentially the most like consuming at a diner are the stools on the timber bar dealing with the kitchen, and the cubicles with olive-green leather-based seats.
Who ought to I’m going with?
Nobody, in case you don’t need to. That is the proper spot for solo eating, with a great deal of bar seating and a communal desk. However in case you’re with a crew, the dial is turned to enjoyable, particularly within the evenings.
Open Tue-Thu 8am-5pm, Fri 8am-11pm, Sat 9am-11pm, Solar 9am-5pm.
27 Johnston Avenue, Collingwood, jollygoodmelbourne.com
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Emma Breheny – Emma is Good Meals’s Melbourne-based reporter and co-editor of The Age Good Meals Information 2024.