Daniel Lee hits his stride taking Burberry into its indie sleaze period with a assured present

Into the darkish got here the hefty vocal of Amy Winehouse’s No Good and set the reference level of Britishness which Lee has efficiently mined. The casting was on level, tapping into the fashion-faces of that indie sleaze late Noughties period, Agyness Deyn opened the present, Lily Donaldson and Lily Cole (in a thin leather-based over the knee boot) each walked (Cole hasn’t been seen on a catwalk for years), as did Jean Campbell, Karen Elson, Lennon Gallagher and Naomi Campbell. Rivetingly, Maya Wigram, daughter of designer Phoebe Philo (whom Lee labored below when she was inventive director of Céline) – final noticed on the ES journal occasion on Friday evening – additionally walked within the present.