In 2023 I travelled to the distant island of Santa Catalina within the Solomon Islands to seize the Wogasia Spear Preventing Competition, probably the most distinctive and least-documented cultural rituals on the earth. On this new journey information I share my expertise attending Wogasia, diving into the cultural which means behind the occasion, what it’s like on Santa Catalina and all the pieces it’s worthwhile to know to go to this pageant your self.
I plant my ft on the sands of Aorigi on the break of daybreak, with the resonating battle cries from spear-wielding warriors piercing by the rustling coconut bushes.
To my left George Waimanu, the fiercest fighter within the Solomon Islands, brandishes his weapon and protect in the direction of the sky, screaming out in daring furore.
In the direction of the east a wall of males, unfold evenly from the sands into the ocean, inch slowly in the direction of Waimanu and the handfuls of warriors adorned in clay that make up his Atawa tribe, anxiously ready for the chilling name of a conch shell.
The air is galvanized with trepidation. The massive crowd of island residents are cheering their fellow tribesmen on, buzzing with anticipation for the primary assault.
My eyes dart quickly from left to proper. I can’t shake the feeling that I’ve stumbled upon one thing extraordinary.
In a contemporary world that’s caught within the whirlwind of innovation, what’s unfolding earlier than me is a window right into a time-honoured tradition that refuses to fade.
A shell is blown, Waimanu cheers and hurls his spear at his brother Robert, an elder within the opposing Amwea tribe, which is expertly deflected by his Hata protect.
The floodgates have opened, the battle has begun, and the sky turns hazy in a flurry of timber spears.
The ultimate battle of Wogasia has begun, and I’m within the epicentre of its chaotic storm.
The Wogasia Spear Preventing Competition – Solomon Islands’ Most Exceptional Cultural Occasion
From the early days of intrepid explorers to awe-inspired youths thumbing by the yellow covers of Nationwide Geographic magazines, people have all the time been in pursuit of the grand and the epic.
The decision of the uncharted, the fun of the surprising, the enjoyment of discovery — these are the lures that pull at our hearts and propel our ft onto untrodden paths.
Sure, even I, a humble traveller who has sought out a various lifetime of wandering journey, have been consumed by this enduring quest.
But on this age of high-speed connections and geo-mapped corners, the seek for such pristine experiences turns into akin to a cosmic treasure hunt.
The epic now evades our keen grasp, hiding beneath the cloak of the acquainted and the well-known.
Scrolling by the countless feeds of social media we begin to realise that what had been as soon as probably the most distant elements of this planet at the moment are effectively documented. Even thought-about ‘stylish’ in some circumstances.
This doesn’t sluggish us down although. The problem heightens, the journey stretches, the hunt intensifies.
Because of this, our thirst for the extraordinary takes us to the farthest flung corners of the world, to the perimeters of the earth, the place the footprints of modernity have but to tread.
It’s right here, within the final vestiges of unspoiled surprise, that the spirit of epic journey experiences whispers to us, encouraging us to delve deeper into the embrace of the world’s unknown.
Having spent half of my life on a journey to step off the crushed path, I by no means thought to look near dwelling for an expertise that may fulfill my craving for journey.
That every one modified one March morning when a telephone name got here by asking if I used to be accessible to doc Aorigi’s Wogasia Spear Preventing Competition, an interesting and nearly remarkable cultural occasion in a distant nook of the Solomon Islands.
Regardless of being only a 3-hour flight from Brisbane, Australia, the Solomons are one of many least visited nations on the earth, with lower than 30,000 vacationers stepping foot on the Pacific nation yearly.
The beautiful archipelago is already offbeat, and the handful of travellers that do come right here are sometimes in quest of uncrowded surf breaks, untouched coral reefs or a quiet place to laze in a hammock with a beloved one.
An historic battle on an island with no scheduled transport, electrical energy or working water isn’t the everyday drawcard for many guests to the Solomons, and that was the explanation I grew to become so intrigued by the decision.
“Wogasia is a sequence of rituals to want for a great yam harvest for the subsequent season,” Mike, a consultant of Tourism Solomon Islands, advised me on the telephone.
“They struggle with spears as a result of the group is so small they don’t maintain any grievances all year long, in any other case their society would possibly crumble.
“As an alternative they problem anybody that they’ve had a difficulty with throughout the yr to a spear struggle on this sooner or later solely.
“Belief me, you’ll adore it.”
After the telephone name I dove into the vastness of the world vast net, and solely got here throughout a small variety of tales and pictures from the fabled Wogasia Competition.
All of them obscure, a short recollection of a journey author’s reminiscences, however with sufficient attract to persuade me that I couldn’t say no to this chance.
A number of weeks later I boarded the worldwide flight to Honiara, the capital of the Solomons, and launched into probably the most exceptional journey experiences of my life.
The Journey to Santa Catalina
I spent a number of days acclimatising in Honiara, visiting native markets, trekking to hidden waterfalls and buying provides for my mission to Wogasia.
Garedd Porowai, a senior member of Tourism Solomon Islands, native legend and a number of veteran of Wogasia, was my private information and ensured that the logistics of my journey had been effectively taken care of.
As I later discovered, Wogasia, and the island of Santa Catalina (Aorigi’s frequent identify) the place it’s held, isn’t the kind of vacation spot a foreigner can simply present as much as with out native assist.
The island has no airport or ferry terminal, there are not any scheduled flights to its nearest neighbour Santa Ana, and permits should be acquired earlier than being granted entry to this wild a part of Solomon Islands’ Makira Province.
With Garedd and his crew dealing with all of the organisation, we packed our luggage and headed to the home airport the day earlier than the pageant would begin.
Our Wogasia group was made up of a really choose variety of folks, simply 7 in complete, together with 4 locals from the tourism board, airline and media – Garedd, Jenny, Crisinrita and Shaun – Johnny and Sam, 2 younger Australians who had been volunteering on the nation’s Institute of Sport, and myself.
A chartered Twin Otter plan operated by Solomon Airways touched taxied down the runway in the direction of the terminal and was refuelled and checked.
We claimed unallocated seats with hand-written boarding passes and buckled up for a mesmerising 1-hour 20-minute flight to Santa Ana, the closest port to Santa Catalina.
Hovering over the primary island of Guadalcanal we quickly handed over glistening coral atolls, turquoise lagoons and palm-speckled seashores earlier than circling round Santa Ana and touching down on its grass runway.
Stepping out of the prop aircraft a few dozen locals welcomed us with smiles and waves.
We collected our baggage an watched the aircraft take off, leaving us behind with a tentative date of when it is going to be again.
Garedd had advised us to anticipate a 30-minute stroll from the highest of the island right down to the fishing village, however a rusted Toyota Hilux was ready for us to move us down the hill.
Piling into the tray we bounced by lush jungle and fruit plantations to the village, the place over 100 folks had been gathered to greet us guests.
We relaxed on the seaside, laughing together with the curious youngsters whereas Garedd negotiated a few small boats to take us throughout the ocean to Santa Catalina.
Ultimately with costs settled we jumped into the boats and motored off, waving goodbye to the island and eyes firmly fastened on our subsequent vacation spot.
Our Arrival
Approaching the swaying coconut bushes of Santa Catalina induced a sense of awe and thriller.
Unfold out throughout the seaside and filtering again by the jungle had been a number of hundred males, ladies and kids, chatting excitedly because the guests arrived, every one waving with beaming smiles.
Father Joseph, one of many village elders donned in a broad-leaf hat and peculiar high-vis t-shirt, greeted us with a conventional welcome, then led us to a household’s home for lunch.
We ate a big unfold of fried fish, yams and rice, which might be our staple eating regimen at some point of our keep, downed by contemporary coconuts plucked simply an hour earlier than.
Garedd greeted all people that handed like an outdated pal. Having grown up on a close-by island, and dealing closely in tourism and group growth, he had turn out to be near a variety of the locals right here and was handled like an uncle.
After our group separated, I used to be taken to my host Father Jack’s place on the different finish of the village and given a room to myself.
The bed room was primary however had all I want – a mattress with mushy mattress and clear sheets, a agency pillow and a small desk for putting my necessary gadgets.
There was no electrical energy, lights within the room, nor a mosquito web, which I used to be advised was not required as no mosquitos are discovered on Santa Catalina.
Close by was a small outhouse with Western-style bathroom, and an open-air room surrounded by plastic with a bucket for a bathe.
It was easy, humble and in some way good in each approach.
An Introduction to the Village
After getting settled I grabbed my digicam and went for a stroll by the settlements and homes of Santa Catalina.
I ran into Garedd and requested what the plan was for the rest of the day. He knowledgeable me that it was a day of relaxation, and that most individuals take it straightforward to organize for the festivities that start the next afternoon.
“A campfire on the seaside could be cool,” I mused to Garedd. “Do the folks right here ever do this?”
“Hmm, probably not,” Garedd stated thoughtfully. “However yea, that may be cool!”
I continued my wanderings on the northern facet of the island, the place a few small villages unfold out from east to west. Father Jack’s was within the centre, kind of, and again from the ocean by 150 metres.
As I walked from settlement to settlement locals got here out with broad grins and heat hellos, welcoming me to their island and displaying me handicrafts or how they make meals.
It was then that I met George Waimanu for the primary time.
Garedd had been chatting with him underneath a lean-to shelter after I walked by.
“Jarryd, that is George, the most effective spear fighter on Santa Catalina! Come meet him.”
I jogged over to shake arms with George, a brief man who stood slightly below my eyes.
He was lean and unassuming, however I might instantly sense his shrouded power beneath his leather-like pores and skin.
His eyes had been light, and his type smile beamed from his weathered face like an extended misplaced pal.
George spoke little English, however language proved to be no barrier.
He welcomed me with out situation, shaking my hand with each of his and showing to be thrilled {that a} foreigner would come all this strategy to witness his beloved Wogasia.
We chatted forwards and backwards, Garedd filling within the gaps for us, whereas I advised him the place I used to be from and what I did. George listened intently, with a glance of focus on his face which immediately broke into wild pleasure when it was translated for him.
I thanked George for his time, figuring out it wouldn’t be the final I see of him on this small island.
I continued my tracks by the labyrinth of the village, and the children rapidly grew to become the primary attraction. Or extra possible, I grew to become their most important attraction.
In all places I went the younger kids adopted me like a shadow, laughing, laughing and posing for photographs.
A number of spoke the odd phrase of English, however for probably the most half they chatted to me in their very own language and repeated what I stated every time I responded.
They led me to the seaside and began taking part in video games, working forwards and backwards with a damaged piece of skinny plywood getting used as a skimboard.
It was easy pleasures, the type which have been forgotten again dwelling by a youthful generations who grasp iPads earlier than they be taught to kick a soccer, and it was magnificent to see.
Time glided by rapidly, and I seen Garedd and some of the locals gathering palm fronds and damaged branches, dragging them right into a pile on the seaside.
“I requested a few campfire tonight and everybody thought it was nice concept!” Garedd known as out.
I seemed on the towering bonfire, dense with dried palms and reaching effectively above head peak.
“That’s going to be fairly a hearth!” I responded, then went off to seek out a number of palm fronds so as to add to the gathering.
Because the solar set I met the remainder of our small group again within the central village for dinner and coconuts.
After an early night meal of fish and yam, we made our approach again to the seaside to seek out among the locals gathered across the leaves.
One of many males got here ahead with a lit bundle of bark and sparked up the hearth.
In moments the blaze licked its approach by the pile and burst to the sky in big dancing flames.
George Waimanu loudly emerged from the darkness, sporting a hat and skirt made from banana leaves, and wielding a protect and spear.
He ran in circles across the hearth, waving his spear and crying out in chants and calls throughout the actions.
A few of kids laughed at George’s vibrant show as he appeared to taunt the flames in twisting manoeuvres.
The hearth flared up and burnt out rapidly, and George was dripping with sweat.
As soon as he regained his breath he ran as much as me and pointed to my digicam. I confirmed him among the photographs I captured of his manic dance, and he cheered with delight.
A number of of the boys dragged the remaining unburnt fronds from the pile and kicked sand over the embers, extinguishing the quick and livid hearth.
The spectators fizzled out very like the flames, and I adopted swimsuit, strolling again to my hut and passing out to the blissful sound of silence.
READ MORE: Take a look at my information to the finest journey pictures suggestions.
The Morning Market
I woke at dawn, obtained dressed and head straight to the seaside to sit down and benefit from the morning blast of oranges and reds that mark the beginning of a brand new day.
To rejoice a handful of tourists being on their island, the artisans of Santa Catalina placed on a morning market to showcase and promote their handmade carvings.
A spread of lovely handicrafts had been accessible to buy, from primary, small fishing hooks proper as much as intricate, shell-inlaid shields and elaborate head items.
The Santa Catalina artists lined the seaside with the souvenirs on show, and I wandered forwards and backwards chatting with the locals and testing their works.
There was no pushiness or hustling from anybody, and every vendor appeared simply as completely happy to indicate off their handicrafts with out anticipating a sale as they did after I finally buy greater than my backpack might deal with.
I purchased 11 items of artwork in a wide range of sizes and styles for lower than AUD$200. It was so reasonably priced I dared not barter, and I fortunately paid regardless of the asking worth was for every merchandise.
The market solely lasted an hour or so, then all people packed up and returned to the village to prepare for the beginning of Wogasia.
Accumulating the Conch Shells
The remainder of the morning handed by lazily, damaged up with a tasty lunch of curried rooster, fish and rice, and I continued my exploration of the village.
Households beckoned me to their houses to indicate me the meals they had been getting ready for the subsequent night time’s feast, and even afforded me a number of small samples.
George tracked me down and took me to his home, bringing me inside and proudly displaying off a few of his personal handicrafts.
In addition to being an professional spear fighter, Waimanu can also be a talented artisan with timber and stone.
He demonstrated how he carves shapes and contours into rock, and even supplied me an elaborate picket masks as a present.
I left George’s home and returned to the shelter that had turn out to be our unofficial resting space to chill out for one more hour.
Garedd, the 2 Australians and I chatted idly over cups of tea when a hive of exercise began to occur round 2pm.
The younger males of Santa Catalina began to scurry off into the villages and jungle, returning with giant conch shells that had been collected over years of Wogasia festivities.
As soon as sufficient had been gathered two warriors and a few dozen younger youngsters grabbed a shell every and wandered into the lapping sea, absolutely clothed, and began blowing the shells.
The sound was haunting and hypnotic, and inside minutes your entire village got here to the sands and watched because the boys and males blew and swayed and shouldered by the waves.
The conch shells had been blown constantly for half-hour, in good unison and rhythm, when the eldest man within the group instantly known as out and so they all returned to the seaside.
They rigorously cleaned their shells, scrubbing out any sand and filth to make sure they had been spotless for the subsequent spherical of rituals.
Conch shells in hand, the boys and males wandered into the jungle and positioned the shells in a pile subsequent to a big rock, then disappeared to get modified.
Accumulating the Beater Sticks
As the boys filtered by the village the ladies then went foraging by the forest in quest of ‘beater sticks’ – lengthy, skinny branches that may be used later within the night.
Every girl collected no less than one stick, then positioned them in a pile amongst dense shrubs on the western finish of the village.
The afternoon rituals had been over, and all people returned to their houses to relaxation earlier than dusk.
Our hosts cooked an early dinner, and Garedd advised me that we had a number of hours spare earlier than we’d hear the sound of conch shells blown once more.
“Once they blow the shells there’s no stopping till after Wogasia,” Garedd warned me.
I decided to refuel my vitality financial institution whereas I had the possibility. Alarm set for midnight, I then headed again to my room simply after sundown to get some sleep.
Fireplace and Fury Via the Village
I woke at midnight and headed to our eating hut to seek out Garedd and Johnny chatting quietly and looking out extraordinarily sleep-deprived.
They’d determined to drag an all-nighter, and the baggage underneath their eyes warned that their resolution might not have been the neatest one.
We made a contemporary batch of prompt espresso to wake us up and sat round for a number of hours extra, nonetheless with no motion within the village.
“They should wait till a star strikes into a specific spot within the sky earlier than the subsequent half begins,” Garedd knowledgeable us.
I glanced out from shelter and stared by the palm bushes, seeing nothing however dense cloud. With no stars seen, it will be anybody’s guess as to when the village elders felt it was the appropriate time to start out.
Simply after 2am we heard the primary conch shell echo by the bushes.
We ran to the far facet of the village and located the boys beginning to collect in a big crowd.
The sound of 1 conch shell became two, after which multiplied exponentially till the unison of horns grew to become deafening.
All the island was now awake, and most of the locals picked up beater sticks from the pile whereas the younger ones and youngsters ran off into the darkish.
“Let’s go to the primary sq.,” Garedd instructed, and we rapidly shuffled off earlier than the chaos started.
We retreated into the darkness in the direction of the centre of the village, assembly on the edge of a big, open sq., and waited for the spectacle to start.
Garedd and I chatted quietly with a number of older women after we heard the sudden cries of an excited stampede reverberating by the timber shacks.
The noise was livid and distant, and rose sharply in quantity because the unseen crowd neared our empty sq..
At one level the sound was throughout us, pulsating by our bones, when shadows and shrieks emerged from the countless night time.
Because the silhouettes of warriors appeared flaming embers flew by the air, hurled by invisible youngsters hiding from the onslaught.
Scores of women and men burst into the scene, screaming and whacking the flaming missiles on the bottom with intense energy.
The explosions of fireplace illuminated their faces amongst the blackness, and your entire village appeared to be underneath assault by the beaters.
Mischievous kids hurled their very own mischievous projectiles – buckets of fish guts that rapidly coated all who entered the battlefield.
This second would have been deathly terrifying, if it weren’t for the refined tones of pleasure underlying their screams and the cheeky smiles that beamed because the embers lit up the sq..
After solely a minute or two, the gang disappeared, charging by the subsequent settlement leaving damaged sticks and small, glowing coals of their wake.
I remained immobile for a number of moments extra, attempting to course of what I had simply witnessed.
Within the distance the sounds of screaming subsided, and it appeared as if the cost had come to an finish.
Garedd smiled. He had seen this many instances earlier than, and but clearly discovered it as highly effective and intimidating as I had.
“They use their sticks to beat the evil spirits out of the earth,” he advised me, and it began to make sense.
“Let’s go to the seaside,” he stated, and we wandered off previous the villages in the direction of the jap finish of the island.
Songs til Dawn
We headed to the ocean to fulfill the gang, and the conch shells echoed out once more.
All people ran to the sting of the ocean and threw their beater sticks into the waves, symbolically sending the evil spirits away from their land and clearing the soil for a productive harvest.
The beater sticks floated on the floor, and the whackers got here collectively in unison.
Most had been coated in fish blood and organs, and some had been by accident hit with the sticks amongst the assault, however no person appeared to be agitated by the accidents.
It was about 3am now, and the group wandered east into the darkness.
As soon as we made it to the tip of the seaside all people took a spot seated within the sand, and the kids began singing a track concerning the rising solar and pudding.
Betelnut was handed round, performing as a powerful stimulant to maintain the adults awake.
Chewing and spitting the pink juice into the bottom, the track continued on repeat for a lot of hours.
I snuck away to discover a patch of sand to put on, staring up on the stars and resting for half-hour whereas drifting out and in of consciousness to the chanting echoing within the night time.
When the faint glow of daylight began to materialise on the horizon the singing stopped, and the ladies gathered in a big group earlier than mountaineering into the jungle.
I discovered Garedd chatting with a number of of the village elders. “They’re going to go decide some flowers from a particular tree,” he advised me. “Once they come again the boys can begin their first struggle.”
The sky slowly modified from black to blue to purple, and because the new day neared the islanders moved to a large patch of seaside in anticipation of the ladies’s return.
The First Spear Struggle
We stood round beneath the quilt of palms whereas males walked off to organize for the upcoming struggle.
The solar broke by the low clouds on the horizon and the ladies returned quietly with the flowers, signalling that Wogasia might now proceed.
The soldiers’ garments had been swapped for conventional headpieces and leaf skirts, and plenty of requested me to take their photographs earlier than they separated into two warring tribes.
On the seaside the viewers grew in dimension and we stood in heightened anticipation for what would come subsequent.
Abruptly George Waimanu charged onto the seaside, thrusting his spear and protect into the air and taunting the invisible enemy to the east.
The gang cheered, and George was joined by two extra warriors, dancing, screaming and spinning.
At this problem we seemed in the direction of the solar and noticed the Amwea tribe emerge from the jungle, spreading out from the sting of palm bushes and much into the ocean.
They approached slowly and determinedly, calling again their very own cries of struggle.
As they neared George and his fighters had been joined by dozens extra, and one of many elders wandered onto the battlefield, drawing a line within the sand along with his foot.
The 2 tribes had been now simply 20 metres aside, face to face from sand to sea, and itching to start.
A conch shell blew from the gang and George hurled the primary spear immediately at his brother Robert, who was standing amongst the opposite tribe.
There was no holding again now. Spears flew throughout the seaside with immense velocity, principally being deflected by shields or hitting the sand, however with some putting their targets with audible thumps.
Various additionally veered off target, practically taking out members of the gang who had been cheering passionately.
The craziness of the struggle in entrance of me continued for round 10 minutes, spears interchangeably flying forwards and backwards with the vitality by no means wavering.
Lastly a chief bumped into the center of the battle, declaring that the struggle was over.
George and Robert met within the center, screaming and taunting their spears at one another, earlier than finally retreating.
The primary spear struggle of Wogasia was accomplished, and the animosity light as rapidly because it had appeared.
The 2 tribes got here collectively and laughed, checking to verify everybody was okay and slapping one another on the backs or shaking arms.
Warriors returned to being brothers, and the ambiance morphed into jovial conversations.
The strongest fighters from every tribe posed for a photograph after which all of us headed again to the villages, passing beneath an elevated pole held excessive by two warriors which symbolised the separation of the battle and brotherhood.
A Morning of Relaxation and Preparation
Returning to the village all people made their approach again to their houses to get well from the lengthy night time and clear themselves of sweat and fish oil.
I had a light-weight breakfast and some mugs of prompt espresso, stress-free by my hut for a number of hours and watching the locals come and go.
Simply earlier than lunch I went for a stroll and was known as over to the houses of many households, who needed to indicate me the varied meals they had been getting ready for the ultimate feast that night time.
Coconut pudding and fermented fish could be on tonight’s menu, and I used to be supplied a number of tasters as a deal with.
The morning handed by slowly, which suited me fantastic in my sleep-deprived state, and I bounced between the shade of the eating hut and the seaside, the place energetic youngsters performed video games with out a care on the earth.
Our hosts made us a scrumptious lunch of fish, rice and contemporary fruit, and we kicked again ready for the ultimate occasion to start.
The Final Struggle of Wogasia
There was motion amongst the village and folks began filtering in the direction of the primary settlement.
We joined the gang and heard that the boys and males of Santa Catalina had ventured into the hills to camouflage themselves in clay earlier than the struggle.
Garedd led us to the sting of the village and we sought shelter behind a small home to flee the unrelenting warmth of the day.
We waited virtually half-hour when with out warning over 100 boys coated head to toe in mud flooded down from the hills, spears in hand, shrieking hysterically.
The shock of their look hit us rapidly and unexpectedly, and Garedd led me to the entrance of the road to face the younger warriors.
Their military grew bigger and extra fierce, and behind the children the grownup males appeared in help with the look of battle etched firmly on their faces.
The gang surged in the direction of the seaside in 50m increments, and I used to be caught up within the stampede.
Backing away I couldn’t escape the onslaught, and I needed to dart into the bushes to keep away from the cost.
When the boys paused to organize for his or her remaining push to the ocean I ran to the seaside to seek out over 50 ladies being wearing head-to-toe banana leaf costumes, known as mwako mwakos.
I ended to admire the intricate work being utilized to the costumes, however was distracted by the sound of conch shells and screams coming from additional down the seaside.
Trying throughout there was a scrum of individuals gathering past the palm bushes, and I bolted to catch as much as them.
After I arrived the gang was thick and I stood on my toes to try to get a glimpse of the battle.
Among the locals close to me seen I used to be attempting to see the motion, and so they ushered me to comply with them, parting the gang and taking me to the entrance of the mosh pit.
Breaking by into open area, I regained my stability simply in time to see the primary spear thrown.
The depth of the ultimate battle was on a completely totally different stage to the struggle I had witnessed within the morning.
The spectators had been extra energised and the soldiers weren’t holding again.
Spears criss-crossed by the air as quick as javelins, putting among the males within the torso and legs.
Cries of ache echoed above the livid screams, earlier than the wounded fighters would shake away the damage, decide up one other spear and hurl it again sooner than ever.
The ferocious battle lasted just a few minutes earlier than two chiefs bumped into the strike zone and yelled for the struggle to finish.
Like a swap, the spear-throwing ceased and George, Robert and Max ran ahead as soon as extra to taunt one another.
They had been dripping with sweat, and the exhaustion of their eyes was evident, however they nonetheless seemed as fearless as ever.
Lastly they lowered their spears and shields and retreated.
Grievances had been cleared, brotherhood returned, and the struggle was over…till subsequent yr.
Returning to the Sea
All the boys of Santa Catalina, those that fought and people who watched, got here collectively in jovial friendship and chatted fondly within the shade of hovering palms.
The conch shells continued, males swayed and danced, and some elders sung out phrases of encouragement and brotherhood.
On the opposite facet the ladies dressed of their mwako mwakos shaped a single line and wrapped themselves across the edges of the village sq..
Their costumes had been each fascinating and intimidating, with solely the arms and ft of the ladies uncovered.
I discovered Garedd and requested why they had been dressed like that.
“Banana leaves are crucial on Santa Catalina,” he shared, whereas keeping track of the gang.
“Meals is wrapped in banana leaves for cooking and so they use them for plates as effectively. All the ladies are additionally holding a stick and a stone, which they use each day when cooking too. Carrying all of them is like asking for a blessing for good meals this yr.”
I wandered up and down the road of girls, snapping a number of photographs and admiring the main points within the weaving of the costumes.
Then the lady on the entrance of the road screamed out, turned and ran by the village, with every costumed woman bolting behind at relentless velocity.
Like an extended inexperienced snake on assault, the ladies charged down the filth path between the ocean and the village. The gang adopted, and I attempted my finest to maintain up with them.
Minutes later they reached one other seaside and bumped into the ocean, stripping off their costumes within the sea revealing their regular garments beneath.
The banana leaves unfold out far and vast, lapping again to shore with the crescent waves.
The soldiers quickly joined us on the seaside, and so they took turns working down the sand to throw their spears into the ocean.
Younger boys sped forward, diving into the ocean and splashing one another with glee.
With a lot fury, grievances and spirits held in these spears, this was the ultimate act to ship all dangerous omens off the island.
It was a phenomenal and highly effective scene, with the ladies laughing and splashing one another amongst the banana leaves and the boys hurling hostility as far-off as their weathered and weakened arms would enable.
quarter-hour later the ultimate spear landed within the sea, the final particular person exited the water, and all people dispersed again to their houses.
The rituals had been over. All the pieces that could possibly be accomplished to want for a bountiful harvest was completed, and with the battle between males accomplished the upcoming yr could be as uplifting and communal because the spirits would enable amongst the Aorigi brothers.
All that was left to do was feast.
The Remaining Feast
Because the solar began to set your entire island separated, with each man and boy making their strategy to one settlement and each girl and lady heading to a different.
The meals that was ready over the previous few days was now served communal model, sitting on the naked earth and sharing the 6-month pudding, dried fish and yams.
Laughter bounced off the timber houses edging the sq.. I seemed round and noticed solely beaming, drained smiles on the faces of the boys.
The following morning I’d bounce on a fishing boat and go away Santa Catalina, starting an extended journey again to my own residence.
I’d be returning with the heat and hospitality of the Aorigi villagers lodged in my coronary heart, and a wonderful perception into one of many world’s most attention-grabbing cultural occasions.
Maybe I too would be taught to not let grievances occupy my interior ideas all year long.
My want to find the extravagant and epic had been fulfilled. Beneath the swaying palm bushes on a distant nook of the Solomons I’d quenched my thirst for an journey in a approach that few had ever seen.
George Waimanu got here as much as me along with his illuminating smile and supplied me a chunk of dried fish.
He spoke to me in his native tongue and I turned to Garedd to ask what he stated.
“He needs you to come back again subsequent yr. You’re in his ‘Atawa’ tribe now, and he needs you to be a part of the subsequent Wogasia.”
I returned his vibrant smile. “In fact George, I’ll come again once more. So long as you promise to not struggle me!”
George burst into deep, trustworthy laughter, shook my hand between his personal and joined his brothers again on the feast.
I suppose I higher begin brushing up on my spear combating expertise.
Wogasia Journey Information – What, The place, When, Why and How
Attending the Wogasia Spear Preventing Competition within the Solomon Islands is without doubt one of the world’s best cultural experiences, and after 15 years chasing my very own adventures stays considered one of my prime journey moments.
Visiting Santa Catalina and collaborating in Wogasia although is a real off-the-beaten-path escapade, and requires planning and native help to be granted entry.
You probably have learn my expertise of Wogasia and would like to attend the pageant your self, I’ve put collectively this complete information to all the pieces it’s worthwhile to know.
What’s Wogasia?
Wogasia is a vibrant relic of the outdated Aorigi tradition, which continues to be a dwelling custom on the island to at the present time.
It’s a sacred celebration of rebirth and fertility, routinely noticed annually throughout the remaining week of Could or the preliminary days of June, with its actual timing dictated by the brand new moon lunar cycle.
This pageant signifies the conclusion of the yam harvest, presenting a wealthy tapestry of the Aorigi folks’s enduring reference to nature and their previous.
Wogasia incorporates quite a lot of rituals held all through the 36ish hours that it happens, and whereas probably the most dramatic one is the spear struggle, there are a variety of different necessary moments to expertise.
What’s the Function of the Spear Struggle?
Spears have been utilized by warriors of the Pacfic for hundreds of years, and together with golf equipment have lengthy been the weapon of selection for warring tribes.
Right this moment on Aorigi locals maintain spears for ceremonial functions and for use on the annual Wogasia pageant.
With simply 2000 folks dwelling on Santa Catalina the group is tight-knit and depending on a civilised society.
If anger, fights or arguments had been to take maintain, the group runs the chance of being torn aside in such a distant place.
In fact disagreements do occur, however to make sure society operates easily there may be an unwritten rule on the island that no person can maintain grudges or act on their grievances with fellow villagers.
As an alternative what the boys do is proceed their lives in concord, and use the day of Wogasia as a strategy to take care of their points.
Wogasia provides a chance for a person to problem one other man to a spear struggle to settle issues.
The spears are blunted to not trigger severe hurt, though the influence may end up in minor accidents.
Every man may solely be challenged as soon as annually, so there isn’t a a number of particular person battles occurring throughout the struggle.
As soon as the spear struggle is concluded there are not any winners or losers. Fairly the grievances are deemed to be handled and have to be forgotten about, permitting the group to maneuver ahead.
Tips on how to Get to Santa Catalina
Santa Catalina is a distant island discovered within the Makira Province, removed from Honiara within the jap a part of the Solomon Islands
The normal identify is Aorigi, with “a” which means island and “rigi” which means very tiny.
The journey to Santa Catalina is an intrepid journey in itself, and requires each a way of journey and a little bit of logistical planning with help from the airline and tourism board.
There’s no airport on Santa Catalina, so as an alternative it’s worthwhile to fly to Santa Ana, the subsequent closest island.
Solomon Airways, the nationwide provider, doesn’t supply frequently scheduled flights to Santa Ana attributable to lack of demand.
The one choice is to organise a constitution flight with Solomon Airways on considered one of their Twin Otter propeller plane, or coordinate your journey right here with a constitution that’s already booked.
The best strategy to organise this flight is to get in contact with the crew at Tourism Solomon Islands, or with Jenny Lobo at Solomon Airways ([email protected]).
After you have secured your flight you’ll depart Honiara on the 1.5-hour low-altitude journey to Santa Ana, flying over beautiful coral atolls and the mountainous, jungle landscapes of the archipelago.
Boasting an extended, grass strip for a runway and an open-air shelter for a terminal, it’d be a little bit of a stretch to say Santa Ana has a lot of an airport, however that makes it much more adventurous if you finally contact down.
From the air strip you’ll must make your approach right down to the primary fishing village on Santa Ana.
In case you’re fortunate, or someone from Solomon Airways or the tourism board has reached out forward of time, one of many locals will probably be ready in your flight with an outdated, beat-up Toyota Hilux to move you and your baggage right down to the village.
If the trip hasn’t arrived although you’ll must stroll down the filth highway by lush forest for about half-hour.
On the village you’ll discover a welcoming assortment of fisherman and smiling kids excited to see you, and quite a lot of boats docked on the seaside.
Negotiate a worth with the fisherman for a visit to Santa Catalina, which is just 25 minutes away throughout the ocean, and head off.
Lodging on Santa Catalina
You received’t discover a 5-star Hilton on the distant island of Santa Catalina, however what you will discover for my part is so a lot better.
The choices for lodging on Santa Catalina are restricted to cosy rooms in a neighborhood household’s dwelling, and as tourism has slowly began to ramp up right here (and after we say ramp up, that’s for the 20 or so foreigners a yr who go to), the guesthouses have improved in consolation and privateness.
In case you haven’t already organised your journey to Wogasia or Santa Catalina forward of time with the tourism board, you’ll have to speak with one of many native chiefs about which household you may stick with.
Don’t fear, you received’t be left stranded right here with out a roof over your head. You can be effectively taken care of from the second you step foot on Santa Catalina.
Assuming you’re travelling as a gaggle although, the chiefs would have already found out which household you can be dwelling with throughout your time right here.
You can be supplied a personal room inside a small timber shack with a single mattress, skinny mattress and clear sheets.
There are not any ensuites right here. Fairly you’ll use the outhouse outfitted with Western-style bathroom, flushed with a bucket attributable to no working water, in a communal space for the household.
A bucket bathe is obtainable and is enclosed with plastic to create some privateness.
The rooms don’t have locks however some doorways do have latches the place you may put a padlock.
Not that theft is an issue right here, and your entire time I stayed on the island I simply closed my door with out worrying a few lock.
There’s no mosquitos on the island, so no want for a mosquito web both. However the rooms aren’t fully sealed, so don’t be shocked if small, innocent bugs get inside.
In the end the lodging on Santa Catalina is primary, but snug, and actually is all you want.
Meals
What are you able to anticipate to eat in Santa Catalina?
The island lives principally off the land and sea, with just a few provisions resembling rice frequently introduced in from elsewhere.
Because of this the meals is primary but nuturious, served morning, midday and night time, with a wide range of staples resembling bananas, papaya, yams, potatoes, rice, contemporary fish and the occasional rooster meal when you’re fortunate.
There are not any scarcity of coconuts both, and I typically discovered piles of contemporary coconuts on a desk with a machete that had been free to take.
Meals are cooked by the ladies of the guesthouses and you’ll both be consuming along with your host household or in an assigned shelter for teams.
Vegetarians and vegans may have a tough time getting protein right here, so if you want to stay to a strict eating regimen it’s best to convey your personal dietary supplements as effectively.
Personally I’m a vegetarian, however made exceptions to eat fish and rooster on Santa Catalina out of respect for my hosts and the information that that is as farm to desk as you will get.
It’s additionally a good suggestion to convey another groceries with you from Honiara resembling prompt espresso or tea and snacks.
3 meals a day are included along with your keep.
Life within the Village
There’s in some way each loads and never a lot to do within the villages of Santa Catalina.
With no energy or telephone service days are spent taking part in video games with the kids, hanging out on the seaside, spending time along with your hosts or different households, cooking, studying the right way to kite fish, snorkelling (if the climate is good) and easily kicking again with a ebook.
When the pageant is on although there may be little down time, and also you’ll be extraordinarily busy becoming a member of within the actions and watching the rituals.
Life is easy and relaxed right here, and a few of my favorite reminiscences had been shaped by simply strolling round chatting with the villagers.
How A lot Does it Price to Attend Wogasia?
There isn’t a ‘set price’ to attend Wogasia, however there are a number of logistics, bookings and permits that should be taken care of earlier than you may go to, which do add up in price.
Count on to pay about $6,000 SBD (USD$700 or AUD$1,100) complete in your constitution flights from Honiara, boat transport, lodging, meals and entry charges for the three days and nights.
When is Wogasia 2024?
We’ve got simply obtained affirmation from Chief Silas that the dates for the subsequent Wogasia will probably be June 2nd and third, 2024.
The place to Guide Wogasia?
If you need to attend Wogasia it’s best to talk immediately with Garedd Porowai from Tourism Solomon Islands.
He can care for all the pieces it’s worthwhile to go to Santa Catalina and attend to Wogasia.
Numbers for 2024 will probably be strictly restricted to fifteen guests most. No exceptions.
Get in contact with Garedd through e mail: [email protected]
